• Chicken Inasal image
    Ulam | Main Dishes

    Chicken Inasal à la JT’s | Bacolod-Style Grilled Chicken Recipe

    Inasál is the Visayan term for “grilled” or “spit-roasted”; the Tagalog equivalent is inihaw. Inasál na Manók is one of the famous specialties of Bacolod, Negros Occidental (Western Visayas). This is perhaps the best chicken barbecue ever. When grilling the chicken, the people of Bacolod usually catch the drippings in a pan and use these to moisten the rice, which makes for a very rich and tasty dish. An authentic Bacolod inasál has the chicken pieces skewered. Usual parts would be, in Bacolod terms as they appear on menus of Inasál houses: paa (whole leg—drumstick and thigh), pecho (half a breast), pecho-pak (breast with wing), pak-pak (whole wing—drumette, wingette or flat, and wing tip), isol (pwet), bol-o (skin), li-og (leeg or neck), atay(liver), baticolon (gizzard), and for the more adventurous palate: dugo(blood cubes) and tina-e (intestine). The use of Star…

  • meatloaf image
    Heirloom Recipe,  Ulam | Main Dishes

    Meatloaf Recipe

    Meatloaf is a dish whose visibility is considerably higher in real life—especially in North America and Britain—than in cookbooks. (Maybe because it doesn’t have a French name?) The use of “loaf” is particularly appropriate as most recipes include bread, usually in the form of soft breadcrumbs. Also, it is shaped like a loaf and is usually baked in a bread/loaf pan.  A worthy dish, meatloaf embodies the sort of rusticity which the word “peasant” evokes rather than the kind of refinement associated with haute cuisine. Well it is, as meatloaf evokes country home goodness, a dish that grandmothers and mothers cook on a day-to-day basis rather than for special occasions. My…

  • Cornell Chicken BBQ close up
    Ulam | Main Dishes

    Cornell Chicken Barbecue Recipe

    This famous barbecue marinade and sauce was developed in the 1940s by Dr. Robert Baker, professor emeritus of Poultry Science and Food Science at Cornell University and creator of chicken nuggets. Dr. Baker sold chicken barbecue every summer at the NY State Fair, that’s why it is also referred to as “State Fair” chicken. Today Cornell Chicken Barbecue is found at fairs, festivals, and fund-raisers throughout the western half of the state. It’s no wonder that many upstate New Yorkers claim this is the best barbecue sauce.  I’ve had this recipe for more than 20 years—it’s from Nora Daza’s weekend TV show “Cooking It Up with Nora”—and it has never…

  • grilled lamb chops image
    Heirloom Recipe,  Ulam | Main Dishes

    Grilled Lamb Chops Recipe

    It wasn’t until after my grandmother passed away in 1962, that my father found it in his heart to work outside Malolos. (Earlier he declined a lucrative job opportunity in Liberia because he could not leave his mother behind.) When I was in 6th grade, Tatay left his job at the Voice of America/ United States Information Service (USIS) in Malolos to join the Manila Observatory which had just moved from Baguio to the Ateneo campus in Loyola Heights in Quezon City. In the first few months he commuted to work, by bus, but eventually moved the family to a rented apartment in Quezon City. (For the next 4 years…

  • Beef Fondue Recipe 1
    Pagkaing Pang-Handaan | Festive Dishes,  Ulam | Main Dishes

    Beef Fondue Recipe

    The name of this dish is completely misleading because it is not a fondue (fahn-DOO). The word fondue comes from the French word fondre, meaning to melt, and refers to a classic Swiss dish consisting of melted cheese into which bite-size chunks of bread are dipped. But there is nothing melted in fondue bourguignonne and neither is it bourguignonne (bur-geen-NYAWN)—it did not originate in Burgundy nor is red wine used in the making! If you want to avoid twisting your tongue, you may call it beef fondue. Fondue bourguignonne aka fondue Burgundy or beef fondue is a popular dish for entertaining, calling for special equipment and strict rules of procedure. Several different…

  • binagoongan full tight image
    Heirloom Recipe,  Ulam | Main Dishes

    Binagoongan | Stewed Pork in Shrimp Paste Recipe

    My husband’s grandparents called this dish “adobong may bagoong,” a description quite apt because that’s what it is—pork adobo cooked in bagoong. Others boil the pork first, then add the bagoong. Other versions of this dish use less bagoong; his mother used more. No matter how it is cooked, one thing is certain: binagoongan is best eaten a day or two after cooking, and always with lots of newly cooked rice to mop up the sauce. When we were building Havenhill in Oct 1987-Apr 1988, my husband and I, with our toddler in tow, spent weekends at the construction site. Lunch was always picnic-style, on a folding picnic table laid…

  • Mechado sliced image
    Pagkaing Pang-Handaan | Festive Dishes,  Ulam | Main Dishes

    Mechado | Larded-Beef Stew Recipe

     Mechado is one of our favorite do-do-do dishes (that include  asado , estofado, and  menudo ). Rich in tomato sauce, they’re called sarciado (from the root word sarsa, meaning sauce) and are perfect for the Sunday family lunch. In Havenhill, however, do-do-do dishes are usually cooked on a weekend, aged for a few days, and served mid-week. By then the flavors have blended and fully developed. Dry cuts of beef are larded with fat to keep them moist; the cooked meat is more succulent, tender, and flavorful. When sliced for the table, the fat looks like a wick (mechá, mitsá), the fiber core of a candle. Our choice of beef cut for…

  • image of pares bowls
    Ulam | Main Dishes

    Beef Pares | Braised Beef Stew Recipe

    Beef Pares, or Pares (pronounced pah res) for short Beef Pares, literally means paired beef—pares is Pilipino for pair, from the Spanish pareja. Braised beef is paired with fried rice and soup to make a complete meal. The dish is similar to the popular Chinese Beef Brisket with the distinct flavor of star anise. Beef Pares is one of those dishes that we replicated at home from recipes researched from the Internet and confirmed from gustatory memories. My son had his first Pares when he was studying. The best Pares, they say, is in the nearby areas of Mayon, Retiro, and Dapitan. Pares, after all, is a popular economy lunch…